Today, I got lost….on purpose. I had a rough idea where I wanted to end up this morning, but I decided that I’d wander around a bit and just discover Barcelona as she wanted to reveal herself. In an area called Barri Gotic, where Barcelona began as a Mediterranean power in the 12th Century, the neighborhood retains much of its medieval sense of narrow streets and tiny pocket squares.
There are hundreds upon hundreds of tiny shops along the streets in this area, most not much larger than a walk-in closet. Many of them specialize in only one thing; it could be flowers, pastry, coffee, purses, shoes, scarves, ham, or even just eggs. It was absolutely fascinating and I was captivated by my morning walk along these streets that have supported the mercantile classes for literally centuries. I observed store owner after store owner greet morning walkers by name, who often stopped for a quick chat and then move along. There is something about “this way of life” that pulls at my spirit, something that has gotten lost in our modern advancements of big box stores, Walmart and Amazon. Ok, I know I’m sounding like an old man reminiscing about the “good old days”, but I’m actually not that old and I grew up with those big box stores, supermarkets, and department stores. There is just something much more human about this way of life, where we connect with one another more often, where our spirits, souls, and melodies meet with one another. Even in the midst of a pandemic, people recognized one another behind masks. It was the happiest place I’ve been in a long time! And you could feel it practically in the air.
I grabbed a coffee and an apple cake at one of these places; nothing special of note for picture taking purposes, but it was delicious.
After wandering, my destination was La Bouqueria Mercat. Here I had a bit of a cry as it reminded me of Reading Terminal in Philadelphia and going there with my sister, Joy. For those of you who never knew her (and for those who did, you’ll know that) she retained into adulthood her childlike wonder at finding something of delight; the one thing she’d been looking for, or something seemingly common as a bite of a delicious piece of cheese. La Bourqueria is the Reading Terminal on steroids and the memory of my sister’s “joy” overwhelmed my senses as I walked through it. It is huge and wonderful! Booth after booth of fresh vegetables, fruits, meats, cheeses, cooked delicacies, etc…. I had a cup of juice of Strawberry and Coconut and a cone of Iberian ham and cheese.
After experiencing the Market and the spirit of my sister, I wandered into morning Mass at Iglesia de Betlehem.
I had a timed ticket for Sagrada de Familia, so headed in that direction to grab lunch before the tour. I sat at an outside table at Casa Madre up the street from the Basilica and had Flank Steak Tacos that were topped with a slice of grilled foie gras. The delicate flavor of the foie gras was overpowered by the steak, but it added a level of creamy richness that made each bite absolutely delicious. Honestly, it was the best tasting food I’ve had in a long time.
Now, on to Gaudi and the Church of the Holy Family. First, I’m very glad that I took the tour. Second, my initial assessment of the church’s strange aesthetics have been changed, somewhat. Third, everything about the church, on the church, in the church is symbolic of something greater. And finally, Gaudi was an inspirational genius. It would be impossible in a short blog like this to explain the church or Gaudi. What I can say is this: I have seen some (certainly not all) of the most magnificent Cathedrals in Europe on previous visits, and have seen some spectacular ones at home in the US, too. Until now, my favorite has always been Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. Sagrada de Familia is cry-worthy in its magnificence. It is what all other cathedrals in the world wished they could be in their reverence to God. In the sanctuary you are bathed in a rainbow of light, under a forest canopy of marble, surrounded by the most unique marriage of the ancient and the modern. It is as if Filippo Brunelleschi and Cosimo de Medici inhabited the soul of Gaudi 500 years later to create Sagrada de Familia with a modern interpretation of the Renaissance Gothic style. And it is not yet finished. Most notably, the central main spire, the Jesus tower (which will be the tallest structure in all of Spain once complete) and the main entrance, the Gloria Facade have yet to be built. Pictures do not do it justice. There is something about being in its presence, under its protection, part of its own soul that fills the spirit with such reverential faith, hope, love, peace and joy, that a picture simply can’t capture. But here are a few, first of the outside and then of the inside:
No comments:
Post a Comment