Before leaving Florence yesterday morning, I stopped a couple of places - one more church called the Basilica de San Lorenzo and the Central Market. The Market is very close to the train station, so I was hoping to grab lunch before getting on train. Early Monday, I stopped at a cute little cafe, and had a cafe latte and this little cookie (made of almond flour and corn flakes, dusted in powered sugar). And seriously, Italian coffee is the best!
This Church is very plain on the outside, which was done on purpose, so that the outside of the church could be decorated by large banners celebrating festivals and the seasons. However, over the years, plans were submitted to make it look more like the Duomo. Yet, each planned drawing was rejected and it still stands with a plain church facade.
This is the church where the Medici’s mostly worshipped. And there are some significant sculptures and paintings inside.
Tomb of Cosimo, the Elder - the founder of the Medici line that lasted in power throughout Europe for over 400 years. He died in 1464. His tombstone reads: “Here lies Cosimo de Medici father of the nation by public decree.”
Here is the tombstone of Donatello. Cosimo was not only the most illustrious patron of Donatello, the sculptor, but also a dear friend of the man. Although he died two years after Cosimo, Cosimo’s son Piero executed his father’s wished to have Donatello buried near him in the crypt of the Basilica, so he could be near him in death, as he had been near him in life. The tombstone reads, “Here lies Donatello, celebrated for reviving the ancient art of sculpting and chasing, most dear to the Medici princes lofty patrons of the liberal arts who, as they revered him while he was alive, so they erected a tomb for him after death in a place close to their own.”
This is an unusual painting. It depicts young Mary and a young looking Joseph getting married before a priest.
A preservationist is working on a tiny corner of the altarpiece.
Many stalls within the Market has some amazing looking food. Here is just a sampling.
And my choice for lunch! On the far left - a Brie type of cheese, drizzled with honey. In the center - liver pate with a slice of salami. On the far right - a sashimi slice of white fish. All of it with a drizzle of olive oil and shaved truffles on top.
On to Siena:
When I first arrived in Siena it felt very strange. I told Walter that it felt like the city had prepared for a horde of tourists to come, but none of them showed up. As I wandered around a bit more, it seemed like a gorgeous indoor Galleria Mall with swanky stores had been placed outside in the store fronts of medieval buildings. It’s a very strange town to me. Perhaps it’s because the tourist season is over, but the streets are completely empty during the day. However, come 5 o’clock and later into the evening, they are crowded with local pedestrians. And I’m surprised how many young people are here. I feel old walking the streets here - one of the ancient grandpa’s.
These are the flags of the 17 districts that make up Siena. Each district is represented by a different flag and mascot. And they are highly competitive. Every summer there is a Palio, a horse race, in the major town square called the Il Campo with each district represented by a horse and rider. 60,000 people crowd into the square to watch.
The Duomo
Inside
This one carving on the huge altarpiece was carved by 24 year old Michelangelo. He was supposed to carve all of them, but was preoccupied with working on The David.
The inlaid marble on the floor is outstanding.
In the late 1300’s, the world was affected by a plague called the Black Death. It killed 1/3 of all those living in Siena at the time. Up until this point Florence and Siena were separate republics and bitter rivals. Each competing for prominence for Medieval control. Florence had the financial foundation that Siena lacked, so while Florence became the leader of the Renaissance movement following those years, Siena receded into obscurity. Hence, why 700 years later, Siena looks a bit strange compared to Venice and Florence that I’d visited. This was what I noticed when I entered the city, but didn’t fully grasp. It was like time stopped in the Middle Ages here, but now a modern esthetic has taken over the old shopkeepers’ places.
This is most noted at the Duomo. Next to it are the remains of the unfinished church. It was planned for this Cathedral to dwarf all other Cathedrals in Christendom. To be even grander than the Duomo in Florence. The current sanctuary would just be a small side chapel, while the main sanctuary would be three times bigger. But again, following the plague, the people of Siena decided that they would not build it, partly because of finances and partly because they believed that the Bubonic Plague (the actual name of the Black Death) was a curse from God for their pride.
Here is what remains of the shell of the unfinished church.
For dinner, I had roast pork, potatoes, a mixed salad, then stopped at the bakery across the street from my apartment and grabbed a “Grandmother’s pastry”. Basically, a shortbread cookie with pastry cream inside, covered in almond bits and dusted in powered sugar.
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