November 14, 2022 - Orvieto, Italy

 Yesterday was pure magic and wonder fulfillment for me!  A number of years ago I began seeing a picture from Italy of this tiny city on the top of a cliff.  And then I saw a couple of movies which had scenes of the same city.  In 2018 I watched a movie called “My Big Fat Gay Wedding” which was filmed there.  Ever since, I’ve wanted to come here.  The town is called Civita, although I think it goes by the full name of Civita di Bagnoregio.  These are two separate towns however.   Tiny Civita is considered a “dead city” as there are no full time residents in the town anymore. 

A settlement on the hill, above a huge canyon, began about 2,500 years ago.  It’s history goes back to the Etruscans before the Romans.  In the Middle Ages, several thousand people lived in Civita.  Once you see the pictures, it will be hard to believe.  However, in 1695 there was a huge earthquake and much of the cliff fell into the canyon below, along with houses, palaces, and two other churches, besides the Basilica that remained in the center of town.  Then, during WWII, the land bridge that connected Bagnoregio to Civita was bombed and completely destroyed cutting Civita off from the rest of the world.  It wasn’t until 1965 that a footbridge was constructed to link the two cities back together again.  Since then, no new residents came to Civita and the last of its elderly population eventually died off.  It is now just one huge open air museum from the Middle Ages, although there are several merchants, restaurants, and a couple of AirBnB’s.

I’ll let my pictures from yesterday speak for themselves.  It is a wonderful little town and fills one of my own hearts’ desires to have seen it, walked there, and stood among the stone buildings that remain.  I have “this thing” about old places.  I often feel the presence of the people from long ago.  In the US, in certain places, I have sometimes felt overwhelmed by their presence - so much so, that I have to find a place to sit down, find a distraction, and disconnect for a moment.  I thought this would happen A LOT in Europe.  To my surprise, it didn’t.  Not even at some of the more notable places where “history was made”.  However, it did happen at Civita.  In fact, it was so strong, that I had to leave an hour earlier than expected and just wait for my driver in Bagnoregio.

Anyway, I wish the pictures could convey the sense of wonder and awe that I felt while I was there.

Today, I just walked around Orvieto.  They have a beautiful Duomo here.  And I’m again surprised by so many young people everywhere.  I’d come to believe, for some reason, that Italy was sort of a dying country with nothing but old people in it.  Not true.  I’ve also had some serious morning headaches as Italians seem to eat nothing more than pastries and coffee in the morning.  Where’s my morning protein?  I think for the rest of the trip, I’ll be going to the supermarket to stock up on yogurt for the mornings and then venture out for a cup of coffee.  And, I really don’t know how Italians eat so much pasta and pizza.  In the beginning, I thought it was because they piled it with fresh ingredients - lots of veggies, lots of meat, etc…., which they do.  But still, it’s a lot of carbs!

I can’t wait for a nice big salad.

Here are pictures of the Duomo and some food things I’ve had.  Today’s lunch was considered “Italian Street Food” - Porchetta con Tartufo (Roast Pork on a Hunk of Crusty Bread)

The Duomo at night:

Some of the “stained glass” windows at the Duomo are actually thin slabs of marble that you can see through.  

A Rocciata - the local pastry in Umbria (apples and raisins)

Pizza - zucchini, tomatoes, cheese, and prosciutto

Lasagna - it was delicious!

I did not have one of these, but they reminded me of the peach cookies I’ve made.

Bruschetta - these were just ok.  I’ve had better.  Olives, Tomatoes, Liver Pate

The Street Food I mentioned.  It was wonderful!

My morning dose of sugar and caffeine!

Tomorrow, I’m on my way to Rome.