July 22, 2022 - Dijon, France

Dijon proved to be an unexpected surprise.  It was really just supposed to be a layover town and the easiest stopover to get from one place to another.  But, I really love this city.  Unlike many of the other French towns I’ve been to, the old town is relatively new - most of the buildings are from the 16th and 17th Centuries.  There are wide streets here without many cars, so it is a walking town and one that is filled with shops of all kinds - national chains as well as Mom and Pop shops.  Anything you could possibly want is here.  There are also a plethora of museums scattered throughout filled with artwork and sculptures.  I visited two or three without paying an admission price.  There is a city bus (the shape and size of a really cool looking van) that drives all over the town and takes you from one place to another, also free of price.

For a relatively small town, there are many old churches.  Several of them have been decommissioned and have been put to use in other ways.  One is a restaurant, another a museum, one was turned into the local library, and the last one that I came across is a theater - there still may be others that I did not discover during my brief time here.

On every building that has some historical value, there is a plaque that explains when it was built, who built it, what purpose it served, who owned it over the years, how it might have changed or been remodeled, and what other purposes it may have served, etc… It was fascinating to read each building’s history.

Dijon mustard is named after this town and was created in 1336 for the table of King Philip VI.  It was slightly different in taste from what we now call Dijon Mustard.  Originally, it had a vinegar base.  In the 17th Century Dijon was granted exclusive rights in France for making it, similar to Champagne.  If Champagne is made somewhere else, outside of Champagne, it can’t be called Champagne but must be called Sparkling Wine instead.  In 1856, the Dijon mustard we are familiar with was created; the vinegar base was exchanged for something called verjuice, the more acidic juice from unripened grapes.  Today, however, that verjuice is generally replaced with white wine or a mix of vinegar, water and salt, to imitate the well-known flavor of Dijon mustard.  Not to burst anyone’s bubble, but since 2009, Dijon mustard is no longer manufactured and packaged in Dijon and 80% of the brown mustard seeds used come from Canada.  This is unlike Champagne that kept its rights from being used elsewhere.  Grey Poupon - the Dijon mustard brand that we all know and love did originate in Dijon in 1866 but is now made throughout Kraft Foods’ plants around the world.

The Burgundy region (the area that includes Dijon) is well-known for Truffles, as well as wine (but what region in France isn’t?) I wasn’t able to book a tour with a “hunting” group to learn more.  There was a tour going out on Sunday afternoon - not helpful for me.  What I do know is that truffles are mushrooms of a high and dense flavor, sought after by chefs the world over and that Black Truffles which more often come from the southern area of France in the Provence region, collected during winter, are the superior prize and can cost a ridiculous amount of money per pound (something like $400 per pound).  White Summer Truffles are less intense in flavor, but are slightly cheaper (something like $350 per pound).  Some chefs will only use Black Truffles and other chefs find the White Truffle more versatile. 

As I mentioned there are a number of churches in Dijon and wonderful architecture of buildings that go back to the 16th and 17th Centuries.  I’ve posted pictures below.

Michele from Belgium told me that I needed to try eggs with a meulette sauce.  I stopped at the Indoor Market and found a vendor selling it, so I bought a serving of them and brought them back to the apartment for lunch.  Poached eggs with sauce (I’m going to guess on the ingredients and try to find a recipe for this sauce later).  I’m guessing that the sauce includes beef broth, red wine, butter, mushrooms, pearl onions and beef tip pieces.  It was very good!  Additional photos are of the Indoor Market

I’ve probably posted about 100 churches thus far on my journeys, so not sure how interested you would be in more church pictures, but I have included pictures of them here.

This is the Church of Notre-Dame of Dijon.

I thought this huge chandelier was interesting.  It looks like the crown of thorns.

Church of St. Michel of Dijon

Cathedral of St Benigne:

I stopped in the afternoon to rest and regroup.  Ordered vanilla ice cream with caramel sauce and wanted a local wine from the region, so I asked the waiter which wine I should order.  He looked at me and said, “In France, we pair wine with cheese.”  He stopped, looked at me and then said, “but….ok, I bring you something.”  Oh well…so much for “when in France”

The red wine he brought went very well with my vanilla ice cream with caramel sauce, thank you very much.

I found out that you definitely need to make reservations for dinner, even if the restaurant isn’t full, they don’t seem to take “walk-ins”, so I made a reservation at Chez Gab’s.  The young man who I had made my reservation with earlier in the day recognized me immediately when I walked up and spoke English to me from the beginning.  I ordered Escargot in a cream sauce, the Beef Bourguignon, and Potatoes Gratin - all in English.  A gentleman who was seated next to me ordered exactly the same thing, of course in French, but I knew he ordered the same thing.  I know my French food words!  When our meals came, another waitress delivered them and she spoke to me in French and to him in English.  We both looked at each other and laughed.  He was originally from Canada but living in Belgium.  He’d always wanted to come to Pittsburgh, but had never taken the opportunity, so he asked me lots of questions.  Although we were seated at separate tables, it was nice to have a “dinner companion” for the night.  And of course I had another local red wine.

Lastly, although it is a touristy thing.  There is an owl carved into the corner of Notre-Dame Church’s exterior.  If you touch it, it will bring you good luck.  To capitalize on the popularity of the owl, Dijon created a whole historical/urban walking trail of places to see with the owl on brass plaques in the sidewalks.

Tomorrow I’m off for a relaxing few days to stay with friends from Pittsburgh who are also visiting France.  They’ve rented a whole Chateau in the Champagne region for three families together, but have rooms to spare.